Water was wonderful and the waves were big out here on Long Island today. Body-surfed a perfect one straight down into the sand. Hope to ride more waves once this abrasion on my forehead heals and the CT scan comes back negative. News flash: I am not 15 anymore. I am, it would seem, much older.
Обсуждение
In my youth I read a book about body surfing written by a judge in California. In it he shared a possibly apocryphal origin story for John Wayne: that a bodysurfing shoulder injury cut off his college football prospects and he turned to acting. Turns out, true! www.thevintagenews.com/2022/01/25/s...