In my youth I read a book about body surfing written by a judge in California. In it he shared a possibly apocryphal origin story for John Wayne: that a bodysurfing shoulder injury cut off his college football prospects and he turned to acting. Turns out, true! www.thevintagenews.com/2022/01/25/s...
How a Surfing Injury Led John Wayne to HollywoodWayne's hobby would have life-changing implications.www.thevintagenews.com